Istria juts out of the northwestern edge of mainland Croatia into the glittering waters of the Adriatic Sea. Often overlooked in favour of the more popular cities in the south – like Dubrovnik or Split – it’s a land that ticks away to the slow rhythms of the sloshing Med and the breeze-touched branches of its native olive trees. If you’re seeking a rustic escape that oozes real Balkan character and charm, this could be just what you’ve been searching for.
The main city here is Pula. It’s as dramatic as they come, with an enormous Roman amphitheatre that dates back 2,000 years on one side and an ancient Roman Forum space that has temples dedicated to the emperor Augustus on the other. The Italian influence still holds firm here, so dive into the old town to taste truffle-topped tagliatelle with crisp Croatian wines on the piazzas. To the south, the stone pines give way to the Punta Verudela Peninsula, its coves, pebbly beaches, and cool summertime beach bars.
The entire western haunch of Istria is a lesson in the rugged Adriatic shoreline. High cliffs and rocky promontories abound, so refreshing wild swims are the order of the day. Occasionally, you’ll spy an ancient town clinging to the headlands. There’s Rovinj, with its exquisite marble-fronted church, topped by a spire that somehow manages to make it out of the maze of narrow alleys and pastel-painted medieval homes below. There’s also Novigrad, where the locals jump straight off the quaysides for swims in the shadow of Venetian-era mansions and local seafood konoba (Croatian taverns).
Luxury villas in Istria pepper the backcountry, too. It’s known as truffle country, largely thanks to the rich black fungi found in the forested valleys around Motovun, an enchanting hill town that caps a bluff over a wiggling river. You can spend days hopping the various olive oil makers and wineries in those parts, learning why this region is hailed as one of the culinary hubs of the nation.
See
- Pula's incredible Roman amphitheatre
- The wild coves of the Cape Kamenjak National Park
- Rovinj and Novigrad: Summer resorts with cobbled piazzas, shuttered houses and small alleys
Experience
- Eat truffles in a farmhouse restaurant or a family-run taverna
- Relax at Istarske Toplice, one of Croatia's oldest and most scenic thermal spas
- Enjoy classical concerts at St Euphemia Church
